NEW PUPPY INFO

What you should know before

BRINGING YOUR PUPPY HOME

THE SHOPPING LIST

Do NOT wait until after your puppy arrives to prepare!!

FOOD & WATER bowls
PUPPY FOOD
CRATE, BEDDING
LEASH, COLLAR, ID tags
BRUSH, COMB, SHAMPOO
TOYS
(optional) PLAYPEN/FENCING
(optional) Nutri-Vet Puppy Vitamin Gel
(optional) Pooper Scooper and Bags

DO'S & DON'TS

Write these down so you have them handy!!

DO - Have a veterinarian already contacted for a wellness check. And Vaccination #3.
- DON'T - Plan to find a vet when you need one
- DON'T - NEVER take your puppy out of the carrier at the vet! NEVER allow him on the GRASS or FLOOR (waiting area or exam room). Sick dogs, parvo dogs are at the vet! Your baby's immune system can NOT fight these viruses!
DO - Plan to take your puppy to potty AFTER he eats, AFTER he plays, IMMEDIATELY upon waking up'
- DON'T - Take your puppy for walks in a dog park, down the street, or ANY public places until after #3 VACCINATION!
DO - Put food and water in the crate AND play area. Small breeds must eat or they can quickly develop health issues.
- DON'T -expect your puppy to LOCATE the food and water if it is not in the confined area.
- DON'T - NEVER allow prolonged time without food/water! Small breed puppies dehydrate quickly and need lots of calories!
DO - Put your puppy in a crate to sleep. USE your hands to remove & carry him to the potty spot immediately upon waking up
- DON'T - allow him to walk out of the crate (and potty on the floor). It's your fault---you must hold & carry him!
- DON'T - leave puppy for hours in the crate! He will soil his crate---PLEASE don't do this!!
DO - Plan ahead for your holidays, out-of-town stays, and emergencies.
- DON'T - Book a hotel or airline that does NOT allow pets (check first)
- DON'T - Wait to think about a house-sitter or dog-sitter. You need a plan in case of emergencies

TRAINING YOUR NEW PUPPY

~~Let's do some Puppy PRE-SCHOOL!!~~

POTTY TRAINING - Crating is great, but what about OUT of the crate? I recommend two things
- Leash attached to you. You can hold it, or you can put around your ankle when sitting. This is great to prevent puppy from wandering out of sight and getting into trouble (ie chewing things, potty in a corner). Leash training establishes you as a pack leader, and builds the bond between you and puppy. When you see the puppy acting like he wants to potty, you simply pick him up in your arms and take him to the potty spot. Leash training also helps facilitate puppy to alert/communicate with you that he needs "to go potty!"
- Puppy play area. Puppy will have a confined space that he plays in so that he cannot wander off and get into trouble. Puppy may learn to not potty in the area, but I have found that puppies usually potty freely in this area. However, if you are located so that you can watch, you can watch for cues that puppy is about to go potty.
- "GO POTTY!!". Say this when you put puppy down in the potty spot. They will learn to associate "Go Potty!" with the action of relieving him/herself! It always helps to have a verbal cue. A verbal praise after of, "Good Potty!" makes them feel proud of their job!
- Potty Area. Take your puppy to the same designated "Potty Spot" (or tree) each time you put them down to potty. A plastic playyard is perfect for this! It keeps puppy in his designated "Potty Spot" while still allowing freedom to sniff and find that perfect place to potty.
- Crate, Leash, Play Area, Potty Spot. These tools make Potty-training quicker with fewer accidents!
PUPPY CLASSES - NOT until after VACCINATION #3! NOT immediately after you bring him home. I highly recommend you sign up for group classes.
- Socialization. This is essential for puppy development. Socialization includes: people, other dogs, places, sounds, even car ride to class! These are all important!
- Basic Manners. Of course, a well-trained dog is such a joy! The group classes keep YOU accountable to work on your homework---spend time DAILY with your puppy!! I don't always do this if I am not "in school".
- Bonding. Puppy classes are something special that YOU and PUPPY do together. It is a special time that you take with just PUPPY. And my dogs appreciate that so much!
- Special Issues. You may be surprised how many questions you have! A trained professional will address your particular needs. I am always impressed when a trainer corrects me & points out the things I do wrong, YES! I still learn from trainers! Dog training is not just intuitive.
TREATS & TRAINING.
- Do not give your NEW puppy treats. Your new puppy's digestive system cannot handle food changes, much less rich treats. TREATS WILL CAUSE DIARRHEA!!
- Cavaliers respond VERY well to positive reinforcement. Treats (when older). Young puppies respond to SMILES, happy voice, petting....all these things are "treats" for your NEW puppy.
- For punishment, a stern look, a scowl, an angry sounding voice is all that is needed to communicate your displeasure!
- If your cavalier ever runs from you, do NOT chase him/her.....you must make puppy WANT to come to you. Train your puppy to come to you and practice to make "come" something they want to do (more than anything else)! The playful nature of Cavaliers will make them run away from you if you chase them. If your cavalier runs from you, whenever you finally catch your baby, PLEASE REFRAIN from being angry! Instead, train your cavalier to come to you (with treats, and a long training leash).